I went to a street cobbler! The monsoons disintegrated the glue on the bottom of my birks so I got a cobbler at the train station to repair them. My friend asked him to fix them for me. He said 20 rupees, because he had to sew them, he couldn’t just reglue them. I said, Wow, yeah! That’s like 50 cents! Sweet! She quietly motioned me to shut the hell up, and bargained him down to 15. (I think you need to be brought up with that bargaining instinct.) Then while he sewed them I asked if I could take a picture. He thought that was odd. He gave my friend a “crazy foreigner” look. It is a look I have begun to recognize.